Tag Archives: AMGA

A comedy of errors

The excursion into Yosemite started off well enough. I left San Diego with a partner who was also named Steve; we had met some years earlier on a previous climbing trip and had shared a rope a couple times since when we crossed paths. I needed a partner for the valley (Yosemite Valley) and he wanted to get back into climbing so it seemed like a slam dunk when we decided to climb El Capitan together. Two noob big wall climbers getting after it on the largest monolith in the world. Good life choice.

a tale of two Steves...on El Capitan

But we are getting ahead of ourselves. As I have said, climbing is often not the hard part of climbing as much as the logistics required to get on the stone itself.(please see the map at the end of the post–it will help you interpret some of the running around we had to do!)

We initially realized that we were short on some essential gear (big wall climbing is very gear-intensive) and so our first challenge was how to acquire a set of ascenders and a daisy chains for Steve as well as a porta-ledge, and a pulley to aid in the hauling of gear which is WAY too heavy to haul hand-over-hand. The porta-ledge was to be supplied by a friend named Mike McDonald, a climber I met on the Supertopo climbers forum–and since this was the biggest item we needed we sort of glossed over the remainder of our gear list assuming it would just come together.

We approached Yosemite through Bishop (on the east side) where we spent a night and did a little bouldering. Here I also managed to lose my iPhone in the town park, something I failed to realize until we were hours away. This might seem like a minor frustration but the phone was to function as my link to keeping the blog and facebook updated through pictures shot along the way. Also, it wasn’t really MY phone. It was Stefanies, and she had given it to me before she left. I have never been a big fan of iPhones, but having seen their usefulness over the course of this project, I had gotten used to using hers and it somehow made me feel closer to her having it with me. Now, I had no way to show or tell what I was up to. Or contact Stefanie who has been super busy with her training.

Being on a climbing trip at times is akin to being under the hot sun with no shade in sight. It is very…sustained and you can feel stranded. Coupling that with not having contact with your best friend and partner and wife–basically is like the aforementioned scenario but standing under a magnifying glass. What initially would have just made you sweat…now makes you smolder and smoke. I cannot overstate the mental exertion that this portion of the trip cost me. 

We intended to shoot for the valley the following day so as to make the most of a weather window (low chance of precipitation and mild temperatures) and bang out the ascent in short order before temperatures got too hot. We had to drive across the park and out the west side  (To Groveland) to meet Mike who was loaning us the porta-ledge and I was able to put the lost phone out of my head for a time as he showed us how to put it up and we “talked shop” about the joys of bigwall climbing. That connection wound up taking a solid day as we were hampered by limited phone access.

The following day we set off, back east into Yosemite National Park with Mike’s portaledge and some other gear he generously loaned us. Straight up, Mike is a terrific human being. He just loaned us over a thousand dollars worth of gear without any question or hesitation and went out of his way to make sure we had all the information we needed to have the best chance at success.

Driving back into the park, we realized that we still were lacking the ascender and pulley and…that there was a heinous noise coming from the brakes on the front driver’s side.  We decided that we should postpone climbing El Cap for another day and address those issues first. We headed all the way back across the park and out the east entrance and down into Bishop. I was fortunate that Steve is a mechanic and was able to fix the brakes for a pint of beer and the cost of parts and tools which were supplied at a significant discount thanks to another friend at need, Darin, who worked at the auto parts store in town and thought our project (and the Dragon Wagon!) were “totally bitchin’”.

We were anxious to turn around and head back up into Yosemite that afternoon but were told that a frontal system had moved in for the evening and our only point of entry to the park, Tioga Pass was closed. Yosemite Valley is surrounded by mountains and all of the entry points for the valley sit at higher elevations–the east side pass, Tioga Pass, is close to 10,000 feet so it can be whiteout conditions there and hot as hell in the valley below.

We accepted the delay and headed out to the Buttermilk Boulders to spend the night, climb a little and get everything packed up to hit the ground running once we got  to the valley.

Night bouldering fun in the Buttermilks

Re-visiting the Ironman Traverse.

Newly repaired Dragon Wagon and the remnants of the storm blowing out of the Sierras in the background

One of the best nights sleep that I had in the last several weeks.

The next morning, we packed up and hit the road up into Yosemite again. I picked up a pulley in Bishop and we decided to try our luck in the valley to get the ascenders for Steve. We stopped in the east side of the park (Tuolumne) to do some climbing on the way and spend a night. I got more video than photos of this part, but here are a few…

Tuolumne, the higher, cooler east side of the park. Rounded domes predominate rather than sheer cliff faces.

Once the brakes were fixed we began thinking of how to address the fact that this car goes about 20mph up hills...the Dragon Wagon is a singles hitter for sure, not much in the home run category!

Steve leading out on P2 of South Crack (5.8R). I got more video of this route that shows how "spicy" it was. There were multiple points on several pitches where a slip would have meant a 80-100 foot fall!

Two Steves, high up on South Crack. Happy to be alive after some intense slab-paddling!

Re-charging post climb. Lots of sun. Getting back down to the car was a real grunt--much harder than climbing up, I thought.

Yay sleep! That's where I'm the VIKING!

Found a sweet place to spend the night with a great view!

We woke up the next morning, poised to head into the valley and met a very cool gentleman named Jim who we chatted with for about an hour–I have been privileged to meet some incredible people on this journey. I want to shout out to Mike McDonald who loaned us his ledge and some extra hardware for our climb which is no small extension considering the investment required to own such gear in the first place. Also Darin and Chris from the auto parts store in Bishop who went out of their way to help us get back up and running. My partner Steve totally styled the brakes too–and saved us a lot of time and money there. Last but not least, it turns out that the phone I lost in the Bishop town park was found by a wonderful lady named Heather who looked us up on Facebook and is mailing it back to us! Ultimately, no matter how far “out” we seek to go, it is the kindness of friends and strangers alike that bring us back.

Logistics of the Yosemite area played a big role in the challenges of this adventure: We approached from Bishop on the east, and had to traverse the park and then some to borrow the porta ledge from Mike who was in the Groveland area to the west on 120. The balance of the climbing (and food storage) took place in Yosemite Valley itself and the nights that we were not sleeping on the route or at the base, we were camped outside the park south of El Portal on 140.

It’s hard to dance with a devil on your back…

According to my reckoning it’s been about two weeks since I sat down with intent to write anything on this blog. I can assure you that not a single day has passed that I have not felt some embarrassment or remorse at that statistic.

I intend to “unpack” the Yosemite adventure in several blogs but the underlying theme that has driven the narrative over the last few weeks has been austerity and hardship. Some of it came with obvious warnings and was a foregone conclusion. Other manifestations of it came completely unlooked for and could not have been predicted. Living among towering peaks and natural beauty is an amazing privilege but one that can exact a very high price that is never included in the magazine cover photos and brochure tag lines.

This is reality, this is the benchmark of true adventure–that it doesn’t have to be fun to be fun. Feeling the sting of loneliness or the rock digging into your back after a solid week of sleeping in the dirt are the markers of authenticity–that you are not eating life out of a can but taking it straight off of the tree.

A predominating thought during my time in Yosemite was: how can I convey the struggle without seeming like I am just bitching and whining? After all, I knew what I was getting myself into. I signed up for this. I begged for it and anticipated it. This inevitably led to the next question of what the hell is wrong with me that I voluntarily seek this type of lifestyle? 

That second question is wholly unanswered. The former, however, is about honesty and not trying to color the truth. I didn’t set out on this project to make diabetes seem less challenging or to show that it’s more difficult to manage than people realize. I wanted to explore the concept of embracing challenge rather than fleeing it-and in doing so, there is simply a lot of groveling, hardship, loneliness, discomfort and even despair.

It’s been a solid month since I last saw Stefanie. I have talked to her maybe 4 times on the phone during this time. I know that some guys have hobbies and activities to get away from their wife or girlfriend. Not me. Every second of every day I feel that void in my life through which all of the other “voices in my head” echo and reverberate to a deafening pitch.

I keep telling myself to just keep sorting out the pieces of the puzzle and not get overwhelmed at the fact that they still need to be assembled before this whole project really begins to take shape and shine. At  multiple points every day I feel like I am actively failing–not sending on El Cap, not getting the shots I want, not keeping the site updated or connecting with our supporters–it has been a struggle to complete the simplest acts of living on a day to day basis and I am constantly faced with the choice to either document it in the moment at the detriment of my well being or to make notes and try and piece it together later. Regardless which option I choose, it always seems wrong.

While the struggle has been very poignant during my time in Yosemite I am left with several encouraging details.

  • I was able to shoot some really nice stuff even without being able to devote a majority of time to the camera work. By nice I don’t mean artistically composed etc, but more in terms of depicting the experience and the scale of the tasks at hand.
  • I got to meet a lot of really amazing and kind people in the Valley and Tuolumne.
  • I learned the ropes and some of the logistics required to make my next trip back there less of a hassle.
  • The dragon wagon is a guaranteed conversation starter now. Before people would glance as they walk by. Now, with even MORE artwork, inscriptions and the like, it really draws people in.
  • I connected with a solid partner for the next couple of months which will allow for more climbing and less down time.
  • I walked up to the biggest monolith on the planet and gave it hell for a solid 5 pitches and learned what not to do so that I can come back stronger next time and send.

Most of all, while I had lots of “life” happening while I slept in the dirt and played on the rocks, Type 1 Diabetes didn’t stop me from doing a single thing that I had planned to try. Weather? Lack of experience? Too much gear or too little in some cases? Sure. But not diabetes. It’s almost like being normal–except I have a car with a hole in the top and sharpie quotes and drawings adorning it.

I am managing to put T1D in its place–which is no special place at all, just in with all of the other tasks of living; it has become part of MY life and by assimilating it into MY world I am empowered.

Climbing life.

I’m pretty sure that climbing has been in my blood from the time I was born. My dad was a structural steel worker who used to earn a crust working on the skeletons of massive skyscrapers in New York City like the World Trade Center and the AT&T building. When I was a little kid I’d “borrow” my dads tools and climb up one of my favorite trees and just hammer nails. Sometimes those endeavors actually developed into primitive tree dwellings, but all of the really clever modifications were implemented by my brother who added pulleys for hauling up “stuff” and usually found ways to expand the floors beyond the level that I had the courage to climb. I couldn’t do a single pull-up but sometimes I would imagine myself as training in the trees for a future in the mountains.

I’ve always struggled with the question of how much to tell my parents about what it is that I do. My mom, for example would get vertigo from climbing a step ladder and literally couldn’t sit up and look out of the car window when we drove up the Mt Washington highway in New Hampshire. I usually settled on the idea that the less they know, the better.

As I have moved further from “normal” recreational activities I always wanted my dad to approve of the choices I’ve made as a man. Initially I gave up soccer in favor of hiking. When I took off on the Appalachian Trail after college with my roomate, my dad was concerned but he accepted my venture. When I began hiking alone for multi day treks in the years after that, he grew more uncomfortable. When I began climbing he began reminding me with greater frequency “not to do anything stupid”.

Now that I am elbow-deep in this project, I have tried repeatedly to share this venture with him even though he does not know what a blog is or Facebook and he still insists on paying all his bills with paper checks because he is certain that the internet “just isn’t safe”. And that may be accurate enough–but recently I spoke with him on the phone and he was finally able to see several of the videos that I made and I hoped that this would help bring him around a little bit. It wasn’t easy to know how to respond when he admitted that he wished I was doing something else instead of climbing.

Sometimes I have moments when I wish that I was a normal person. I could just go to the gym. I could play golf or go bowling. I could go on normal vacations and lay on beaches and go to restaurants. I could have a home (even an apartment to rent, you know anything without wheels). Before Stefanie left for her new job we had a conversation along these lines and I realized that I have never just “gone on vacation” and relaxed.

And honestly, I really dont want to. 

I have always had a very strong relationship with my dad but it has always eaten at me that the proudest accomplishments of mine may never be fully understood, accepted, or a source of pride for him. I didn’t ask to get diabetes–but I did, and now it is a part of who I am. I didn’t ask to be a climber, but now I am and I would be lying to myself if I hung up my rope and rack and accepted doing anything less unless that is where my heart led me. Someday that all may change, and if that does, I won’t have any compunction about hanging it up and walking away. I have never looked down on normal lives–if anything I have looked at that and wondered what it would be like to walk that path but realizing in the end that my proclivities were leading me in a different direction entirely–and that I couldn’t control the outcome.

Sometimes there is a fine line between a gift and a burden. I have been asked frequently what the “connection is between type 1 diabetes and climbing” is. There is another similarity that can be added to the list. Being true to yourself and following your own path is rooted in being honest with yourself and others. I can’t pretend that all of climbing is just a great big old time. Sometimes I look at the price I am paying and have to ask–is it really worth it in the end?

So here is how I work through this: it’s not the end yet so how can I even begin to speculate (and once it is, it will be too late to change who I was, so that’s a pointless question). Is anything ”worth it”? Nothing comes without a price-tag and in the event of life choices, the purchase is never refundable.

Ultimately you have to take what you have and make the best of it, work hard and be proud of what you do, and try and help other people because that is what matters regardless what path you take to arrive at that end–just like my dad always said.

 

 

Yosemite

I first visited Yosemite Valley in 2008 on the tail end of my first climbing trip–which ended with Stefanie and I getting married in San Diego. It was my first ride through the valley and I was still green as a climber, so I could accept the chills that shot down my spine when I looked up into the cold stone face of El Capitan and imagined what it would be like to be adrift on that sea of granite.

In 2011, I visited Yosemite Valley again, with my partner Trevor, as we ended our cross country blitz shooting trailer footage for Project 365 and this time, I couldn’t leave without at least approaching El Cap and hiking up to the base. At the time I had no big-wall experience, so again I excused myself for only scurrying about the feet of “the Captain” and I dreamed of the next time I would return and I shuddered at the thought that I had run out of “look-see” visits.

Since the 1960s Yosemite has been the cradle of  American rock climbing and the routes that are travelled over stone have been both pioneered and repeated by some of the first and the very best climbers alive. Imagine getting to shoot hoops with Michael Jordan or heading down to the skate park and Tony Hawk lends you his board for a quick session. That is what it means to climb in Yosemite.  Rob once said “If you climb a route put up by one of your heroes, it’s like shaking hands with him at every handhold.” I don’t know of may other athletic pursuits that allow and indeed are based on such accessibility to anyone willing to accept the risk. There is an element of sharing that exists through time between all climbers, the small and the great, coupled with the risk.

The rock and the immensity of it all brings us together to revel in the challenge and the seemingly insurmountable odds.(Sound familiar?) There is a sort of magnetic pull that captures you and draws you in. As you walk closer, the rock looms up above you and it sucks the sound right out of the air. This is not a game–this is not a sport–it is an all out fight for survival in the most literal sense on thousand-foot rock faces.

Yosemite will challenge me on many levels. That is such a trite understatement. I am entering Yosemite knowing that I will not leave there the same as I am going in. I am prepared to be shaken to the core, prepared to push myself beyond mental and physical breaking points. I am planning at least one wall solo–no partner, just an MP3 player and a shit-ton of gear.

I began scratching the surface in Zion. Yosemite will offer bigger walls and more of them. It was amazing to glimpse what I can do. Now I will put myself in a position where I have no choice but to rise to that level not just for a moment, but to stay there and to rely on my ability to do so for extended periods. I am prepared to suffer because I know that is going to be a significant component of progress–the joy and the beauty that I will find there does not require preparation because I am always ready to be immersed in that.

For that matter, I am ready to feel desperate, to feel stretched to feel…alive. I am less afraid to go up than I am to spend my life on the ground wishing that I had taken that risk when I had the opportunity. Diabetes brought me here. Now I will return the favor and bring diabetes up the wall with me.

 

Goodbye, San Diego.

I stood in the dingy supermarket checkout line, waiting as the overworked clerk rang up the various purchases for those buying last minute installments of hot dogs, ribs, burgers and chicken for holiday BBQs. I tried to avoid making eye contact with the other shoppers lest my true opinion of highly processed, low quality meats would belie itself and I would wind up getting a switchblade in the ribs for my concern.

I was compulsively looking at my CGM, which has become a nervous tick at this point, enjoying the fact that I was not buying any food but merely accompanying Mike (my sister-in-law’s boyfriend) on his quest to get a few items. We had been chatting about my plans once I leave San Diego and my uncertainty regarding a possible return to this area next winter, to close out Project 365.

As I gave voice to the fact that the project is entering its 5th month, the enormity of everything at hand set in. How would I deal with being “at large” without even a semblance of a home base? I drifted into a fond reflection of the time I have spent here, the convenience of close, local climbing, internet and having an actual address at which to receive mail! I also thought about the fact that my downtime since Stefanie’s departure has been more of a burden than a luxury.

My reverie was interrupted at this point when the lady in the next line over began going ballistic, shouting “Oh my GOD someone stole my purse, someone stole my purse!”. She began frantically hurling chicken thighs and bags of Doritos out of her cart and onto the floor and checkout counter to confirm that her proclamation was not premature. Our clerk confided in me that this type of scene was not uncommon and to be vigilant about  guarding my wallet and possessions. My mind reeled with the thought of some scofflaw trying to rob me and not understanding my spastic explanation of why I would not be willing to surrender my CGM!

In that moment, I knew–there was no need to look back, because the best is yet to come. Wednesday morning bright and early, I’m out of here!